What We Look For When Fitting a Cowboy Hat

For the professional hat shapers at Ol’ Glory Hat Company, delivering the perfect cowboy hat isn’t a hobby; it’s an obsession. Our team is passionate about helping people find their perfect hat, the one that not only suits their shape and style but also speaks to their soul. 

We know that a cowboy hat is there for life’s defining moments, so we pay attention to the smallest details. That’s why our hats aren’t just shaped for you, they’re shaped to you, so no matter where your cowboying takes you, a hat from Ol’ Glory Hat Company ensures you make a statement that won’t soon be forgotten.

Professional Cowboy Hat Shaping from Ol’ Glory Hat Company

Cowboy hats are characterized by the height and shape of the crown (the rounded part of the hat above the brim); the brim (the edge of material that extends out around the base of the crown; and the crease (the shape or indentation of the crown). Stock or factory hats are typically available in standard general sizes either pre-shaped or with an open crown that has no crease.

A custom-fitted cowboy hat from Ol’ Glory is a work of art. It is created through the careful creasing, shaping, and folding of the crown and brim by our professional factory-trained hat shapers, and no two hats are crafted alike. Instead, every hat begins as a blank canvas, and it’s our job to help yours become what it was meant to be. 

“Every hat has its own story and character, just like each person who wears that cowboy hat” explains Ol’ Glory’s Lead Hatshaper, Christian Coryell. “The shape of a cowboy hat speaks volumes about who a person is, so we do our absolute best to shape the hat to the person who’s buying it.”

Whether you wander into our in-store hat bar or schedule a unique one-on-one hat shaping experience, here are some of the things the professional hat shapers at Ol’ Glory Hat Company will look for when fitting and shaping your custom cowboy hat.

A starting point. 

Going straight for just any hat is putting the cart before the horse. Instead of asking you what you want as soon as you sit down, we’ll try to get a little better feel for what you need. We’ll ask you what you like and don’t like, what you do for work and play, what styles you’re drawn to and which ones push you away. We’ll also ask if you have pictures of hats you like and what your preferences are. Above all, we’ll ask you to be honest with us; our only goal is creating a custom hat you hate to take off, so anything less is simply unacceptable.

“What makes hat shaping worth it is the excitement on a person’s face after their hat is finished. It’s what I love about this job.”

The size of the hat. 

Cowboy hats range in size from 6 ½ to an 8 and are based on the measurement of your head just above your eyebrows and ears, where your hat will naturally sit. Your hat should be snug enough to stay in place whether you’re roping or cuttin’ a rug, but loose enough that it doesn’t feel constricting or cause your head to ache. You should also consider when and where you’ll be wearing your hat; for example, if you’re in a hot or humid climate, you may opt for a slightly looser fit since your head may swell a bit. And, because the right size is also about proportion, we’ll also measure from the top of your head to your ears to guide crown height.

The fit of the hat.

Head sizes and shapes are irregular, and, although no one’s head is perfectly straight, your cowboy hat should be. We use a tool called a conformateur to map the unique contours of your head to make sure your hat rests the right way; how you wear it is up to you, pardner.

Your facial shape and structure.

Every hat is different because every face is different, and certain styles complement certain features better than others. Whether you’re round, oval, square, or long–or even if you wear glasses–the brim, the crown, and the crease of your hat can accentuate, highlight, emphasize, or soften the structures of your face. The medium-to-tall crowns, tight creases, and more angular brims elongate while curved brims and slightly rounded crowns create subtly in strong angles. Wide brims and low crowns are better for horizontal balance while narrow brims or round crowns add fullness.

Your body proportions. 

Believe it or not, your body shape can make or break the impact your cowboy hat has. For example, a big-brimmed hat with a wide crease may swallow up a shorter person while a thin brim crease may appear entirely too small on a broad-shouldered person. Brim widths and crown sizes that are properly proportioned to each other as well as to the width and breadth of your shoulders helps create a more balanced profile, and is often checked by ensuring a finger’s width of space between the edge of the brim and the crown. 

The color of the hat. 

The color of your hat should complement both your complexion and your wardrobe. Black and dark greys are often good for cooler skin tones, wardrobe versatility, and formal settings or showmanship. Browns and tans tend to work well with warmer skin tones and create a classic style that transitions easily from functional to fashionable. Neutrals like dark gray or natural make great starter colors, since they pair well with most outfits, but don’t be afraid to select a shade that stands out a little more, like bone, evergreen, grenadine, or midnight blue.

When and where you’ll be wearing it.

Your cowboy hat shouldn’t just fit your face; it should fit your lifestyle, too. Whether you need a hard-working hat for everyday, a good-looking one for evenings out, or something in between, it’s our job to make sure we shape it in a way that feels like it belongs anywhere and everywhere you wear it. Crowns, brims, and creases can be shaped for specifics like style, sun protection, or a secure fit, and materials can be selected for optimal performance or polish, all while staying true to the tradition of a striking silhouette.

Discover the Tradition of Professional Hat Shaping at Ol’ Glory Hat Company

At Ol’ Glory Hat Company, we aren’t here to help you find a hat; we’re here to help the perfect hat find you. We take the time to get to know you, your preferences, and your style, because we know that the right cowboy hat is an important part of who you are. With the right combination of industry expertise, exceptional customer service, and a commitment to authenticity and quality, Ol’ Glory Hat Company pays homage to the heritage of the cowboy spirit.

“We’re honored to continue the tradition of Western culture by offering the finest quality hats to our customers,” says Christian. “We blend traditional craftsmanship, modern style, and a mastery of skill to help people write their own unique story and create their own personal legacy.”

Create yours by visiting us in-store or booking an on-site shaping experience today!

FAQs

What style of hat best fits my face?

The right hat depends on your face shape, proportions, and personal style, which is why Ol’ Glory’s professional hat shapers take time to look at the whole picture, not just the hat. Brim width, crown height, and crease style (like a Cattleman, Gus, or pinch-front) can all balance facial features differently. In the shop, we’ll walk you through options and shape the hat in real time so it complements you, not just a trend.

Can you reshape a hat I already bought somewhere else?

Yes—reshaping factory hats is one of the most common requests we get at Ol’ Glory. Many off-the-shelf hats are intentionally left generically shaped, and our experienced, factory-trained hat shapers can rework the crown and brim to give it a custom, worn-in look. We’ll also let you know what’s realistically possible based on the felt, structure, quality, and condition of your hat.

How can I make my hat look like the one in a picture?

Customers often bring in photos of a style, celebrity, or vintage hat they love, and we use those as inspiration, but not a rigid template. Our shapers translate the key elements of the look (crease, brim shape, proportions) while adapting it to your head shape and the hat you’re working with, because the goal at Ol’ Glory is to capture the feel of the style while making sure it still fits and wears comfortably.

Can you change the brim or crown height on my hat?

In many cases, yes; adjusting brim width or lowering a tall crown is a standard part of custom shaping. At Ol’ Glory, we’ll evaluate the hat’s construction and felt quality before making changes to ensure clean lines and long-term durability. We also help customers decide what measurements will look best once the hat is actually on their head.

Can you make my hat smaller or larger?

Minor resizing is often possible, depending on the hat’s construction and how much adjustment is needed. Ol’ Glory’s team will inspect the sweatband and structure to determine whether resizing can be done safely and comfortably. If it’s not advisable, we’ll be upfront and help you explore better options.

What should I do if my hat is too tight?

A hat that’s too tight can often be stretched or adjusted at the sweatband, but that needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the felt. At Ol’ Glory, we use professional tools and techniques to make controlled adjustments that improve the comfort of your cowboy hat without compromising shape. If the issue is more than simple tightness, we’ll help you understand what your options and the best next step are.